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是什么在推动养生食品的繁荣?

更新时间:2018/1/25 21:34:03 来源:本站原创 作者:佚名

What's really driving the boom in wellness foods?
是什么在推动养生食品的繁荣?

Welcome to a new year - and perhaps, a ‘new you’. The latest, shiniest, addition to the weightloss industry is wellness - an Instagram search on the words reveals a staggering 15,315,754 posts.

欢迎来到新的一年——你或许也要迎来"新的自己"。除了瘦身减肥之外,最新、最闪耀的词就是"养生"——在Instagram上搜索这个词会显示出15,315,754个帖子,令人吃惊不已。

The wellness industry is booming but is there any science behind it? The concept includes a panoply of different things from eating more vegetables to, at the extreme end, excluding certain food groups and adopting a whole new lifestyle.

养生行业正在蓬勃发展,但背后真的有科学依据吗?这个概念包罗万象,既包括多吃蔬菜这种常见的方式,也涵盖彻底摒弃某些食物并采取全新生活方式这种极端的行为。

Many people in the industry don’t like to describe ‘wellness’ as a diet, but Louise Foxcroft, a historian and author of A History of Dieting Over 2000 years, disagrees.

这个行业里的很多人不喜欢把"养生"限定为饮食这一个范畴,但历史学家兼《2000年的节食历史》(A History of Dieting Over 2000 years)一书的作者路易斯·福克斯克劳福特(Louise Foxcroft)却持有不同观点。

“There are so many diets for the general public and wellness is a more holistic way of approaching a healthy lifestyle; whether they say this is a diet or not, it is a diet. It’s a regime to live by and the idea is that you would be slim, because healthy is seen as slim, so there’s no getting away from it.”

"普通大众有很多饮食方式,而养生是一种获得健康生活方式的更为全面的模式;无论他们是否承认这是饮食,这其实就是饮食。这是一种养生之道,他们认为人应该苗条一些,因为苗条就是健康,所以摆脱不了饮食。"

There's no shortage of businesses developing products to cater to the trend. Rebekah Hall, founder and CEO of drinks firm, Botanic Lab, was an investment banker for 10 years before launching her company to capitalise on the new market. Botanic Lab's Refuel, for example, is a black liquid drink which according to the label is ‘a hypertonic blend with medical grade charcoal, mighty raw cane grass and a citrus hit of raw yuzu.’

通过开发产品来迎合这一趋势的企业不在少数。饮料公司Botanic Lab创始人兼首席执行官丽贝卡·霍尔(Rebekah Hall)曾经担任了10年的投资银行家,后来创办了这家公司,希望通过这个新市场获利。例如,Botanic Lab的Refuel是一种黑色液体饮料,标签上显示,这是"一种混合了医用级木炭、原生藤草和生柚的张力亢进型饮料。"

So, are people consuming drinks like these because it seems like an easier way of getting healthy than going out and doing some exercise?

那么,人们会买这种饮料来喝吗?就是因为喝这种饮料感觉起来比出门锻炼更容易获得健康吗?

“Everyone wants a quick fix and if you can provide someone with something that’s taking the hassle and mess away, that’s great and that’s part of what we do," says Hall. "But the drinks also have a real function attached to them and are used by a number of sports teams in the UK, for example premiership football teams who want to help refuel the body after exercise but don’t necessarily want to have refined sugar and processed ingredients.”

"所有人都希望加快速度,如果你能为某人提供一种方法来解决各种麻烦,那肯定很好,这也是我们所作的事情。"霍尔说,"但这种饮料也有一些实际功效,英国的很多运动队都在使用。例如英超足球队,他们希望在锻炼之后给身体补充能量,但却不希望加入精糖和经过加工的原料。"

What will happen when people get bored of ‘wellness’ and start following a new fitness and health trend?

当人们厌倦了"养生",开始追求新的健身和健康趋势时,会发生什么事情?

“There are fads within wellness,” says Hall. “There’s a new superfood every week but I think wellness, as an all-encompassing term, is not going away. People want longevity, ‘what’s the elixir of life, how am I going to live longer?’ and the pursuit of that is driving the choices we make in terms of lifestyle and food and drink.”

"养生领域掀起了时尚浪潮。"霍尔说,"每个星期都有新的超级食物,但我认为,作为一个包罗万象的词汇,养生不会消失。人们希望长命百岁,'不老仙丹是什么?我怎么才能延长寿命?'这方面的追求也对我们在生活方式和饮食方面的选择产生了影响。"

A visit to Stylist Live, a lifestyle show in London, with 200 stalls, dozens of guest speakers and around 20,000 visitors lays out the mind-boggling array of choices for people interested in wellness products.One of the exhibitors, LA Brewery, founded by Louise Avery, makes health-drink kombucha, fast becoming a favourite in wellness circles.

伦敦的Stylist Live生活方式展览上共有200个展台,数十名演讲嘉宾,还有大约20,000名参展者为那些关注养生产品的人展示各种令人难以置信的方式。其中一家名为LA Brewery的参展商是由路易斯·艾弗里(Louise Avery)创办的,该公司专门生产红茶菌,这种饮料迅速成为养生圈新宠。

“Kombucha was originally drunk 2000 years ago in China, it was a health tonic and I’ve developed a kombucha which I sell as a soft drink," she says. "The fermentation process means we only have to use very simple ingredients like tea, sugar which is fermented off in the process and then I add fresh fruit. You end up with this sour, delicious, fizzy drink, it is healthy, there’s nothing in it, it’s good for you.”

"红茶菌有2000年的历史,最早来自中国。这是一种健康的滋补品,我们开发了一种作为软饮料出售的红菌茶。"她说,"这种发酵过程意味着我们只需要添加茶叶这种非常简单的作料,糖是在发酵过程中生成的,我之后还会添加新鲜水果。最终就得到了这种又酸又美味的汽水饮料。它很健康,里面什么都没有,对你身体很好。"

Other companies make a virtue of excluding certain ingredients from their products. Jamie Keeble works for Heck Sausages, which sells gluten-free chicken and pork sausages, many of his customers are coeliac, an autoimmune disease caused by a reaction to gluten, but others, like Keeble himself just choose to cut it out of their diet.

其他公司也跟风从各自的产品中去除了某些配料。杰米·吉贝尔(Jamie Keeble)任职于Heck Sausages,该公司开发一种无麸质鸡肉和猪肉香肠,他的很多客户都患有乳糜泻,这是一种因为对麸质的反应而引发的自体免疫性疾病。但其他人(包括吉贝尔自己)只是出于主观意愿选择直接将其从饮食中去掉。

“I’m not gluten intolerant but I prefer not to eat it because it makes me feel a bit different; everyone has this perception of gluten being evil so they naturally presume it’s something they need to avoid,” he says.

"我并不是耐受不了麸质,但我选择不吃这种东西是因为这让我感觉有点不一样:大家都认为麸质不好,所以他们自然认为应该避开它。"他说。

Wellness is often associated with another buzzword - clean eating - the idea that you should only consume foods that are minimally processed. Which seems very sensible - until that is, it gets obsessive.

养生经常与另外一个流行词联系起来,那就是洁食,指的是我们吃东西时应该尽量减少加工程序。这似乎很明智,除非达到过犹不及的程度。

This concept and its association with health has its critics. Daniella Isaacs has been performing a controversial stage show in London called ‘Hear Me Raw’ about her experience of the clean eating code.

这个概念及其与健康的联系也引发了一些批评。丹妮拉·伊萨克斯(Daniella Isaacs)一直在伦敦表演颇受争议的舞台剧,该剧名叫《Hear Me Raw》,讲述了她吃洁食的经历。

Isaacs was once a huge clean eating fan, and was first attracted to the trend because it gave her “control, structure, routine” to her life leading her to cut gluten, dairy, sugar and meat from her diet.

伊萨克斯曾经也是一个忠实的洁食粉,第一次受到这个趋势吸引是因为这给她的生活带来了"控制、结构、规律",让她可以从饮食中去掉麸质、乳制品、糖和肉。

She eventually changed track and now writes about her experiences: “Of course there’s some wonderful things in wellness, but when wellness becomes a consumerist driven industry, it can’t provide the answers we’re looking for, that give you a truly healthy life.”

她最终改变了轨迹,现在还把自己的经历写了下来:"当然,养生里面有很多好东西,但当养生成了一个驱动消费主义的行业时,那就无法提供我们想要的答案,无法为我们提供真正健康的生活。"

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